Chapter 1: Rediscovering the Jacket Potato

When was the last time you enjoyed a jacket potato for dinner? In my case, it was just this past Monday. Before that, I hadn't indulged in years.

My partner and I aren't particularly enthusiastic cooks. While we adore good food, the effort involved in preparing meals often feels daunting. Vegetarian cooking can be especially challenging if you wish to avoid cycling through the same easy favorites, such as macaroni and cauliflower cheese. Personally, I find that anything cheesy generally hits the spot, which is why we often turn to Riverford's organic recipe boxes. They provide detailed instructions and precise ingredient quantities, minimizing waste while offering variety.

This week, we opted for a quick dish: Leek, Lemon, Broad Bean & Crème Fraîche Linguine. Usually, this might have been our go-to meal at the beginning of the week, but our jacket potato ended up taking center stage. Admittedly, while a cheesy jacket potato might be a common student staple, it’s hard to believe that Riverford could justify their prices for such a simple yet satisfying dish.

One unexpected highlight this week, apart from rekindling my love for potatoes, was Mother's Day. I found myself home alone, yelling at the TV after Liverpool’s last-minute penalty claim was denied during a thrilling match against Manchester City.

Originally, I was set to have dinner with my partner and family in Guildford, but two of her Amazon packages were scheduled for delivery that day. It was the least I could do to stay back and help out.

Without much in the pantry (our recipe boxes wouldn't arrive until Monday), my partner scavenged for something to prepare so I wouldn’t go hungry. This sounds worse than it was; it made me realize I need to get my act together.

By adding a can of Carlin peas—an unusual British alternative to chickpeas—to my Sunday dinner, I ensured we had plenty of leftovers. My partner started hinting at a hearty jacket potato, topped with butter and cheese, using the remaining peas as a garnish. I was genuinely excited for dinner the next evening, and it didn't disappoint. The meal was delicious, leading me to wonder why I hadn’t enjoyed jacket potatoes more frequently. It reminded me that this type of meal was once a popular dieting strategy.

The approach was to fast most of the day in anticipation of a satisfying dinner. Although this typically meant using a small amount of butter instead of generous dollops, it was easily forgivable when paired with ratatouille—a low-calorie option that added a flavorful tomato sauce. It appeared to be a substantial meal, diverting thoughts of hunger and the temptation of higher-calorie alternatives.

However, dietary trends shifted over the years. A decade or so later, scientific insights began to criticize the jacket potato, revealing that they contained twice the sugar of a can of soda. They were almost as reviled as fries, which had long been deemed off-limits for serious dieters. Even diets that allowed them as a treat cautioned against consuming more than a few, only after achieving significant goals. Air fryers hadn’t even been invented yet.

I often ponder why jacket potatoes were never served at my junior school in Oxton during the 1970s. We had chips once a week, likely on Fridays, while the rest of the week featured either boiled potatoes or, worse, mashed potatoes. After much complaining, my mother explained that they used a combination of margarine and water instead of butter and milk to save costs. This concoction often left behind hard grey lumps with black spots, which I’ve avoided ever since.

A significant development in Oxton during my childhood was the opening of a baked potato shop. I can’t recall the exact name, but it certainly was a takeaway, and my sister and I were eager to try it. Unbeknownst to us, it coincided with the launch of Spud U Like, a baked potato chain that opened its first restaurant in Edinburgh in 1974.

In Oxton, the basic offering was a baked potato with butter, cooked in a shiny black oven at the back of the shop. The aroma was captivating. Various toppings were displayed behind a glass counter, including classic choices like grated cheddar, baked beans, coleslaw, and even prawn cocktail for those feeling adventurous.

One evening, while playing with the Breakall kids next door, Mr. Breakall emerged and handed Anne, the eldest, a pound note to buy dinner from the new takeaway. My sister and I were both shocked and envious. In reality, their mother often seemed disheartened, spending hours gazing out of the upstairs window, unaware that we could see her.

Eventually, we managed to convince our mother to take us to the potato shop. Being a math teacher, she meticulously tracked every expense in her red graph-paper notebook. It didn’t take her long to deduce that she could feed our entire family for the same price as one baked potato with a bit of butter. Without hesitation, she turned on her heels, leaving us to sheepishly follow while the bewildered shopkeeper wondered what had just happened.

Initially, the shop thrived, especially during lunchtime. However, as time passed, I noticed the same man working there, often alone, during the evenings when they should have been busy.

Eventually, a "for rent" sign appeared, and the shop closed. It’s hardly surprising; if households operated under similar logic to my mother’s, even those who could afford it would prefer the simplicity of baking a potato at home.

Interestingly, Spud U Like faced a similar decline, ultimately closing many locations by 2019. Albert Bartlett, a potato grower with vested interests, acquired some of the remaining stores. In 2021, chef James Martin collaborated with the owners to revamp the menu. If you’re eager to sample these culinary innovations, you’ll need to venture to Manchester, Leeds, or Plymouth—perhaps a sign that a hot dog is best enjoyed in a bun.

Chapter 2: A Modern Take on the Jacket Potato

In this video, we see the fascinating lengths people go to for a simple jacket potato, with some queuing for three hours just to enjoy this humble dish.

This video delves into the historical impact of the potato on global history, showcasing its significance beyond just a food item.